MAKING DESIGNS USING FUSIBLE APPLIQUE

You will need the following:

            ~pattern – check to see if the pattern needs to be reversed

            ~fabric for the design

            ~fusible web (we use Wonder Under but many fusibles are available

~background or base for the design (this could be fabric for a quilt block or a ready made apron)

            ~thread – usually 40 weight, but can be decorative or glitzy

REVERSING THE PATTERN ~ If the pattern reversed will be a problem for the design, you will need to reverse it before tracing the design on the fusible.  (The alphabet would be backwards so must be reversed first.)  To reverse a pattern, using a light box or at the window, trace the wrong side of the designs onto paper – this will be your reversed pattern.

MAKING YOUR DESIGN ~ Trace each pattern piece onto the paper side of fusible.  Rough cut the traced pattern pieces out and iron onto the WRONG SIDE of the appropriate fabrics.  Cut out on the line and remove the paper.  **follow fusible instructions when ironing onto fabric.

ASSEMBLY ~ Put the pattern placement on the ironing board under an appliqué pressing sheet.  We recommend the Bear Threads appliqué sheet as it is very transparent and heavy duty.  Iron each pattern piece onto the sheet in the logical order to complete your design.  When design is cool, remove from the sheet and iron onto background fabric.

SATIN STITCH ~ A close tight zigzag stitch over the raw edge of the design is called a statin stitch.  Stitch width can be a “3” and length is just above a button hole stitch ~ maybe a “.5”.  Use a small needle, such as a 70, place paper as a stabilizer under the background fabric and stitch through the design, background and paper for results.  Remove paper by tearing away.

TEN TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL APPLIQUE

1. Read the fusible instructions
2. Reverse pattern if necessary
3. Trace the pattern onto the paper side of the fusible.
4. Assemble the design on the appliqué pressing sheet
5. Use a permanent marker, if called for, on the design before removing from appliqué sheet
6. Use pressing sheet as pressing cloth when applying the finished design to the background fabric.
7. Use a smaller needle such as a 70, making sure it is sharp for satin stitching
8. Satin stitch over raw edges of the design using tight close stitches.
9. Place a stabilizing paper under the background fabric to satin stitch
10. Pre-wash fabrics if significant shrinkage could be a factor – especially the background fabrics.

**Bonus Tip – Whether tracing or ironing, your fusible web should be facing away from you.  Place your appliqué sheet on your ironing board when ironing fusible onto fabric – if you get fusible on the ironing board cover – bummer – if you get fusible on your appliqué pressing sheet it just peels right off.  Save your cover!!

Connie is the owner and designer for “Sew Wonderful Dreams”, a pattern company in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.  She specializes in patterns for the quilter.  With a background in marketing, and a heart for teaching, Connie travels throughout the United States sharing her tips & techniques on quilting, and appliqué

Connie is a Special Guest Speaker / Educator at "The Original Creative Festival" following locations:

SAN MATEO, CA Feb 15-17, 2008

TUCSON, AZ, Apr 17-19, 2008 (Connie will also be offering a pre-show half day class on April 16)

COUNCIL BLUFFS, IA, May 29-31, 2008 (Connie will also be offering a pre-show half day class on May 28)

CINCINNATI, OH, Jun 26-28, 2008 (Connie will also be offering a pre-show half day class on Jun 25)

HONOLULU, HI, Aug 01-03, 2008

RENO, NV, Aug 14-16, 2008 (Connie will also be offering a pre-show half day class on Aug 13)

Make your plans to attend today!
For more information about Connie Spurlock go to www.sewwonderfuldreams.com

Thank you

ConnieSpurlock

Sew Wonderful Dreams                    

1256 Bogue Court      

Coeur d'Alene, ID 83815         

208-667-6168

Fax: 208-665-2440 

cspurlock@adelphia.net

TIP #1

Carefree Binding
Boutique Techniques from Lyla J. Messinger,
L.J. Designs and The Sewing Place

1. Cut binding on bias grain of woven or crosswise grain of knit. Width of strip should equal 3 times the finished desired width, plus 3/8" plus turn of cloth.
2. Press a strip of Design Plus™ Ultra-soft Double-sided Fusible paper side up to one long edge on the right side of the fabric. Remove paper.
   
3. Pin the binding to the garment, right side of non-fused binding edge to right side of garment. A slightly contrasting thread color in bobbin attaches binding and doubles as a placement guide for fusing in next step. Stitch binding in place, the width of the desired finished binding.
   
4. With wrong side of garment up on ironing board, turn the raw edge of binding 3/8" (the width of the fusible) to the wrong side so the Ultra-soft will be hidden when binding is in place. Roll the edge of the binding over and fuse the folded edge in place along the bobbin stitching. DO NOT cover bobbin stitching, as the accuracy of your binding width will be compromised. Work small sections at a time, using only the tip of the iron to fuse.
   
5. Working from the right side of the garment, edge stitch the binding in place. An edge stitch foot is helpful, if available. Since the folded edge was placed along the contrast bobbin stitching, your new line of stitching will be positioned perfectly. With the binding fused in place, the width remains consistent and there is no twisting or shifting as you sew.
   

TIP #2

Controlled Knit Hem
'The Greatest way to hem Slinky™ knit'
Boutique Techniques from Lyla J. Messinger,
L.J. Designs and The Sewing Place

The secret is the super soft fusible called Design Plus™ Ultra-soft Double-sided fusible, a paper backed fusible that drapes beautifully, acts as a stabilizer, and will not gum up the needle.

1. Serge finish hem edge, if desired.
2. Press Design Plus™ Ultra-soft Double-sided Fusible paper side up, approximately 1/4" from the hem edge on the wrong side of fabric. Remove the paper from fusible.
3. Fold and pin the hem allowance to the wrong side. Press the hem allowance, keeping the iron 1/4" away from the serged edge. This allows you to press the hem without creating an unsightly ridge on the outside of the garment. Remove pins before pressing each section.
   
4. Install a stretch double needle, either 2.5mm or 4mm width, in a size to match your fabric. Use a long stitch length, 3.5 – 4mm. Stitch through the adhesive from the right side of the garment. The Design Plus™ Ultra-soft adhesive acts as a stabilizer, so be sure to stitch directly through it, and the fabric will come out from behind the presser foot totally flat, no rippling. The adhesive also bonds the two fabric layers to prevent the fabric from shifting and twisting as you sew.
   
   You won't even know the adhesive is there once you are done, it will drape with the fabric.

TIP #3

Facing Free Neckline
Boutique Techniques from Lyla J. Messinger,
L.J. Designs and The Sewing Place

Eliminate the bulk and added work of adding a facing to a curved neck edge with this simple technique. Using Design Plus™ fusible bias stay tape will stabilize the neck edge and simplify turning the edge of fabric to the inside for stitching.

1. Serge Design Plus™ fusible bias stay tape to the neck edge, with fusible side of tape up and wrong side of fabric up. Place the tape 1/4"from the raw edge before serging. Trim excess fabric while serging along the edge of the stay tape. DO NOT stretch the stay tape during application.
   No serger? Trim the excess 1/4" from neck edge first, then; zig-zag tape to edge of fabric as above.
   
2. Place garment on ironing board, wrong side up. Turn the edge 3/8" (the width of the stay tape) toward the wrong side of garment, hiding the bias tape, then; fuse in place using the tip of the iron only. Spot fuse center front and back of neck, as well as shoulder seams before fusing the rest of the neck edge.
   
3. Topstitch neck edge from right side of garment. Since the layers are fused together, the usual twisting and shifting are eliminated.

This technique also works well for bias hems and long hemmed edges with drape. Use Design Plus™ Super Fine bias stay tape to eliminate bulk and promote drape.

Lyla's book: Ordinary to Extraordinary: Terrific Treatments for Garment Sewing is full of more great sewing tips and lots of decorative inspiration and how to's.

Lyla J.Messinger – L.J. Designs
Lyla J. Messinger is an internationally recognized designer, author and speaker. She is President of L.J. Designs, a multi-faceted company including L.J. Designs and À La Mode patterns, Design Plus® notions, and TheSewingPlace.com website for fashion sewing enthusiasts. Lyla retired from teaching to pursue her passion to promote fashion sewing by providing simple, stylish garment and accessory patterns, notions, education and inspiration to the sewing public She continaully builds her business with innovation, education, and integrity. Lyla was recently selected as one of nine 'Master Certified Sewing Educators' for SEA (Sewing Educator Alliance). Teachers around the country can now attend classes to earn credits toward their SEA Teacher Certification while they learn to become professional teachers. www.LJDesignsOnline.com and our sister site www.TheSewingPlace.com

Lyla is a Special Guest Speaker / Educator at "The Original Creative Festival" in

Reno, NV August 17, 18, 19, 2007

Make your plans to attend today!

For more information about Lyla go to www.ljdesignsonline.com

Thank you
Lyla Messinger
L.J. Designs
Office: 775-853-2207
Fax: 775-853-2217
Cell: 775-846-9295
E: LJMessinger@yahoo.com

Tip #1

When picking fabric for a Snippet Sensations pictorial quilt, I recommend that you consider fabrics with a pattern or multiple shades of colors. Solid colored fabrics tend to be dull or flat, where as prints tend to show more motion. If you view the printed fabric from a distance, you will be able to see what color they "read" and thus where they can be used it in your project. It may seem scary at first to use them, but I promise you'll be thankful of the result.

Tip #2

When selecting fabrics for your quilts, I recommend you use colors that clash or do not match so well. I know this sounds strange. But, for instance, in Monet's paintings he tended to use clashing warm and cool colors such as olive green and teal. We quilters generally use fabrics with colors that match so closely that the end results sometimes are boring. Whether in your bed quilts or pictorial wall hangings, clashing colors will bring movement and life to your project.

Tip #3

Should you use a paint or dye? It can be confusing to select which medium to use in coloring your fabric. They are two different chemical compounds, each with it own pros and cons. Dyes have the advantage of brilliant bold colors and it is easy to dye large yardage amounts in vats. But, dyes are hard to set, not completely colorfast, toxic and tend to be messy. By contrast, paints are simple to set by ironing, are colorfast, and easy to apply. However it is hard to paint large amounts of yardage and the resulting colors are not as bright as dyes. Personally, because fabric paints are hassle free and I like their soft color, they are my medium of choice.

Cindy Walter is best known for the quilting technique she created called Snippet Sensation, a way to "paint" with fabric. She is the author of nine quilting books, a video and has designed fabric for spring. She is also the co-host of the Quilt Central TV show and regularly hosts specials for Quilterstv.com.

Cindy is the Special Guest Speaker / Educator at "The Original Creative Festival" following locations:

Cincinnati, OH June 28, 29, 30, 2007 (Cindy will be offering a pre-show half day class on Wednesday June 27th)
Saratoga Springs, NY July 6, 7, 8, 2007 (Cindy will be offering a pre-show half day class on Thursday July 5th))
Honolulu, HI August 3, 4, 5, 2007
San Rafael, CA August 30, 31, September 1, 2007

Make your plans to attend today!
For more information about Cindy Walter go to www.cindywalter.com

Thank you

Cindy Walter
2769 Laniloa Street
Honolulu, HI 96813
808-537-3677
cindyquilter@aol.com

Tip #1

When choosing fabrics for landscapes, don't forget to look on the back side of the fabric. More often than not, the reverse side can be used as another shade. It will already be in the same color family and can be used to blend in other fabrics. You can also use the reverse side of fabrics to indicate distance. The fabric will look out of focus and indistinct. This especially works good if you have a foliage type fabric.

Tip #2

When designing from a photograph, remember that you can use more than one photograph in your quilt as inspiration. You can use parts of several pictures. Just trace the elements you like in each one and then superimpose them to create your own design. For instance, let's say you have a photograph of your front porch and there are potted plants on your porch. Unfortunately, some of them look half dead. Go get some good looking plant pictures and superimpose them over the dead plants. Now it looks as if you have a green thumb! We can now "google" pictures of just about any subject to use as reference.

Tip #3

Give yourself permission to mess up. You can always appliqué over it, paint over it, or rip it out. Sometimes our mistakes come out much better than anything we could ever plan. Just go for it!

Cynthia England / England Design
Cynthia is a graduate of the Art Institute of Houston and has been creating quilts for more than thirty years. Experimentation with quilting techniques led her to develop her own unique style. Cynthia's quilts have been honored with many awards, including two Best of Shows at the prestigious "International Quilt Association". Her quilt, Piece and Quiet was distinguished as one of the Hundred Best Quilts of the 20th Century. Cynthia teaches and lectures nationally and internationally. Visit her website at: www.englanddesign.com

Cynthia is the Special Guest Speaker / Educator at
Reno, NV, The Original Creative Festival August 17, 18, 19, 2007
Council Bluffs, IA Festival September 21, 22, 23, 2007
Make your plans to attend today!

Cynthia will be offering half & full day workshops at the following The Original Creative Festival locations in 2007. Make your plans to attend today!
Reno, NV August 17, 18, 19, 2007
Council Bluffs, IA September 21, 22, 23, 2007
For more information about Cynthia England / England Design go to www.englanddesign.com
Thank you

Cynthia England
England Design
1201 Sunset Drive
Dickinson TX, 77539
281-534-1858
Fax: 281-534-1623
cynengland@englanddesign.com

1) Even small projects can be affected by grainline. Spend a few moments focusing on how the crossgrain, straight of the grain, and bias are going to affect your project. This is exceedingly important when stuffing a form to make a doll.

2) When you are collecting fabric - Make certain the fabric is working for you. If you have pieces in your collection that once sang to you from across the room, but now appear dead and uninteresting - purge them from you collection. The reason for buying fabric is to look at it and be inspired...Once you have looked at it and been inspired you have used it and no longer have any obligation to it. If your collection of fabric is out of control - hidden in boxes, stuffed in bins, filling your attic and basement - you are suffering from creative constipation!

3) Your BEST FRIEND is your sewing machine. Clean and check it regularly. If this is an old relic that you hide from your friends, it is time for a change. Work nights if you have to, or sell one of the kids, but get a good machine. This machine will facilitate your life's statement. Every eight hours of sewing, you MUST change your needle. I use a #12 or UNIVERSAL SCHMETZ needle. Cheap thread, the kind that's 2 for a dollar, will wreak havoc on your machine's tension. The stuff on a wooden spool is for your memory box - It's too old to use. So, now is the hour. If you are the only person at your house who is living as if they were poor, it's time for sweet justice. Go get that new machine, thread, a dandy pair of scissors, and go to work!!

elinor peace bailey / epbdolls.com
elinor peace bailey received her art education through Parson's School of Design, Tyler School of Fine Arts, and Brigham Young University. She has written; Mother Plays with Dolls, The Rag Doll From Plain to Fancy, and recently, Two Doll Makers Meet In The Middle, publish by Krause. elinor has self-published 65 doll patterns and 7 books which cover doll making from the simple to the complex. She has illustrated books for Bernina of America and Fairfield Process, and has designed fabric for P & B Textiles, Daisy Kingdom, and Concord Fabrics. She has acted as consultant for Crafts Magazine, Prym Dritz Corp. (who has manufactured her dolls), Fairfield Processing, and Springs Mills. elinor is a writer of not truly bad poetry, and she sings with great energy. She presently is experimenting with journaling and altered books, in addition to creating art to wear, which she shows off by wearing herself. She has enjoyed great kindness from her friends and audiences wherever she has gone and there fore, she plans to continue.

For more information about elinor and epbdolls.com go to www.epbdolls.com

1. Eliminate puckered seam problems on silks by sewing seams with a brand new 70/10 HM or HJ needle and always sewing with 100% cotton thread.
    
2. Plagued by stretched hemlines on knits? Knit hems can be tamed by inserting a half inch strip of Lite Steam-a-Seam 2, into the hemline, using the manufacturer's instructions. Follow this up with twin needle stitching using a stretch twin needle and woolly nylon in the bobbin. Lower the top tension 2 numbers to eliminate a ridge between the needles.

Sandra Betzina / Power Sewing

Sandra Betzina formerly hosted "Sew Perfect" which aired on Home & Garden TV, writes a syndicated sewing column called "Power Sewing" and featured articles for Threads, Vogue Patterns, Sew Beautiful and Australian Stitches magazines, and currently designs a line of patterns called Today's Fit for Vogue and Butterick patterns. Sandra was inducted into the Sewing Hall of Fame in 2002 and voted teacher of the year. Sandra has written 10 books and created 12 instructional videos and 3

Sandra is the Special Guest Speaker / Educator at the Cincinnati, OH, The Original Creative Festival June 28, 29, 30, 2007 and at the Reno, NV Festival August 17, 18, 19, 2007. Make your plans to attend today!

Sandra will be offering half day workshops at the following The Original Creative Festival locations in 2007. Make your plans to attend today!
Cincinnati, OH, The Original Creative Festival June 28, 29, 30
Reno, NV Festival August 17, 18, 19, 2007

For more information about Sandra and Power Sewing go to www.SandraBetzina.com

Thank you
Sandra Betzina
Power Sewing
1390 Pine St. #302
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-359-0440
415-386-0441 fax

My personality is warp speed or asleep. I am very creative and extremely careless.

Through the years I developed techniques that work well for me. I use extra steps to keep precise while sewing fast.

One tip when applying elastic to a waistline is to increase the stitch length to 1/8". This is necessary to allow the elastic to return to its original length. Divide the elastic and waist into four parts. Place the elastic just below the top inside edge of the garment and pin at each of the quarter points. With the elastic up, vertically baste the elastic to the garment at each quarter point. This way you can remove all pins and keep the elastic from diagonal pulling. With elastic up, stretch and horizontally baste bottom of elastic to garment using a wide long zigzag. This step becomes the inside top edge control when the elastic is folded down to the inside.

About Kathy Ruddy

Active in the sewing industry since 1962, Kathy's experience scans five decades as a pattern designer, Serger, and fitting expert, Inc., president of Live Guides Inc. and Vice president of Unique Patterns, a complete solution to successful custom–fit dressmaking patterns for sewing with the bodyskanner that captures accurate measurements of your body. Her specialty is to sew and serge fast and easy without sacrificing quality, fit or fashion detail

Kathy will exhibit and offer classes at the following The Original Creative Festival locations in 2007. Make your plans to attend today!
San Mateo, CA February 16, 17, 18
Cincinnati, OH June 28, 29, 30
Reno, NV Festival August 17, 18, 19, 2007

For more information about Kathy and Unique Patterns www.uniquepatterns.com

Thank you

Kathy Ruddy
Vice President Member Motivation
Unique Patterns
The World's Largest Custom-Fit Pattern Company
1-800-543-4739
www.uniquepatterns.com
www.uniqueltd.com

Kathy Ruddy
President
Live Guides Inc.

Sewing Tips:

My kind of sewing involves precision techniques that create elegant, custom clothes. One tip to achieve the desired results is to sew with a straight stitch plate and a straight stitch foot. Each of these has only a small hole to allow the needle to penetrate the fabric. Many sewers leave the wide mouth plate and foot on the machine for all of their basic sewing. Have you ever dropped the needle in the fabric, lifted the presser foot, and noticed the edge of the fabric extends beyond the seam allowance guide? Here is another example: you drop the needle into the fabric, raise the presser foot to turn a corner, and literally have to pull the fabric up onto the needle and out of the hole. The momentum of the needle is pushing the fabric into the wide mouth of the plate. This is especially obvious when working with light weight fabrics, making it difficult to sew a straight, accurate seam. Unless the needle position has been changed from the center, I always sew with a straight stitch plate and straight stitch foot.

Cynthia Guffey is a couture dressmaker and fabric store owner, Cynthia teaches techniques for beautifully fitted fashion forward clothing, often incorporating machine embroidery.

Cynthia will exhibit and offer classes at the following The Original Creative Festival locations in 2007. Make your plans to attend today!
San Mateo, CA February 16, 17, 18
Cincinnati, OH June 28, 29, 30
Saratoga Springs, NY Jul 6, 7, 8
Reno, NV Festival August 17, 18, 19, 2007

To learn more go to http://www.cynthiaguffey.com